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PUPPIES
House Training
Race Foster, DVM
Marty Smith, DVM
Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc.
Q. What are the best methods for house training
a puppy?
A. If your dog is going to live inside the
home, and in America over 90% of our pets
do, you are going to have to go through the
housebreaking process unless you have grossly
different hygienic standards than most. It
is not hard, it need not be messy, and it
need not be a struggle. It does not have
to take a long time. Remember that it is
a training issue and you will need to have
more than casual input. It will take some
of your time but the more involved you get,
the shorter that span will be.
The Rules
House Training Rule Number One: This is The
Most Important Rule – If you don't catch
your puppy doing it - then don't punish him
for it!
House Training Rule Number Two: Praise your
puppy when things go right. Don't let this
be a situation where your only action is
saying "No" when they are caught
in the midst of using the wrong area. If
they do it right – let them know!
Methods of house training
Starting Inside: There are several ways to
housebreak a puppy. With the first, you can
put down papers or pretreated pads, encouraging
them to use these areas for going to the
bathroom. The pads are scented with a chemical
that attracts the puppy to use them. Whenever
you see them starting into their "pre-potty
pattern," such as walking around and
sniffing the floor, you gently pick them
up without talking and carry them over to
the papers/pad and then praise them when
they go to the bathroom (Rule 2).
When all goes well and they are using the
papers consistently, the papers are either
moved closer to the door and/or another set
is placed outside. The transition is made
from concentrating the toilet habits to one
spot inside the home to one spot outside
the home. Finally, the papers inside are
eliminated. The only problem with this method
is that for a period of time it encourages
the animal to eliminate inside the home.
In our experience, house training may take
longer when this method is used.
Crate Training: The second popular method
of house training involves the use of a crate
or cage. The often-stated reasoning is that
the animal is placed in a cage that is just
large enough to be a bed. Dogs do not like
to soil their beds because they would be
forced to lay in the mess. It works, and
while in these confines, most pups will control
their bladder and bowels for a longer time
than we would expect. Young puppies, at 8
or 9 weeks of age can often last for 7 or
8 hours, however, we would never recommend
leaving them unattended in a crate for that
long in most circumstances.
During housebreaking, whenever the puppy
is inside the home but cannot be watched,
he is placed in the crate. This might be
while you are cooking, reading to the children,
or even away from the home. The last thing
you do before you put the puppy in the crate
is take him outside to his favorite spot.
The first thing you do when you take the
animal out of the crate is another trip outside.
No food or water goes in the crate, just
a blanket and maybe a chew toy to occupy
his time. Overnight is definitely crate time.
As your faith in the puppy grows, leave him
out for longer and longer periods of time.
Most people do not recognize an important
advantage of crate training. It does more
than just stop the animal from messing in
the house. It also teaches the puppy something
very important. The puppy learns that when
the urge to urinate or defecate occurs, he
can hold it. Just because the pup feels like
he needs to relieve himself, the pup learns
that he does not have to. This is thought
to be the main reason why puppies that have
gone through crate training have fewer mistakes
later on.
Make sure you buy the right size cage. You
want one that has the floor space that provides
just enough for the puppy to lie down. But
cages are useful throughout a dog's life
and it would be nice if you did not have
to keep buying more as he grows. That is
not necessary. Simply purchase a cage that
will be big enough for him as an adult, but
choose a model that comes with or has a divider
panel as an accessory. With these, you can
adjust the position of the panel so that
the space inside the cage available to the
pet can grow as he does.
Using too large of a crate can often cause
long term problems. The puppy will go to
one corner of the cage and urinate or defecate.
After a while, he will then run through it
tracking it all over the cage. If this is
allowed to continue, the instincts about
not soiling his bed or lying in the mess
will be forgotten and the puppy will soon
be doing it every day when placed in the
crate. Now a house training method has turned
into a behavioral problem as the puppy’s
newly-formed hygienic habits becomes his
way of life.
Constant Supervision: The last method involves
no papers, pads, or crates. Rather, you chose
to spend all the time necessary with the
puppy. This works very well for people who
live and work in their homes, retired persons,
or in situations where the owners are always
with the animal. Whenever they see the puppy
doing his "pre-potty pattern" they
hustle him outside. It is important that
the dog is watched at all times and that
no mistakes are allowed to occur. This method
has less room for error, as there is nothing
like a cage to restrict the animal's urges,
nor is there a place for him to relieve himself
such as on the papers or pad. When he is
taken outside, watch the puppy closely and
as soon as all goes as planned, he should
be praised and then brought back inside immediately.
You want the dog to understand that the purpose
for going outside was to go to the bathroom.
Do not start playing, make it a trip for
a reason. Verbal communications help this
method and we will discuss them soon. For
those with the time, this is a good method.
We still recommend having a crate available
as a backup when the owners have to be away
from the animal.
Verbal cues
Specific verbal communications will also
help the two of you understand what is desired.
It is an excellent idea to always use a word
when it is time to head to the bathroom.
We like "Outside?" Remember that
whenever you use a verbal command or signal,
it is important that everybody in the family
always uses the same word in the same way.
Think of the word "Outside" in
this situation not only as a question you
are asking the pup, but also as an indication
that you want to go there. Some dogs may
get into the habit of going to the door when
they want to go outside. This is great when
it happens but it is not as common as some
believe. We have found that it is better
to use verbal commands to initiate this sort
of activity rather than waiting for the puppy
to learn this behavior on his own. It seems
like your consistent use of a word or phrase
like "Outside" will cause the puppy
to come to you rather than the door when
he needs to go outside. The pup quickly sees
you as part of the overall activity of getting
to where he needs to go. We believe this
is much better.
Once outside, we try to encourage the pup
to get on with the act in question. We use
the phrase "Do your numbers." This
is probably a holdover from our own parenthood
and hearing children use the "Number
1" or "Number 2" phrases.
Others use 'Do It,' 'Potty,' or 'Hurry Up.'
As soon as they eliminate, it is very important
to praise them with a "Good Dog"
and then come back inside immediately. Again,
make this trip that started outside with
a specific word "Outside" be for
a purpose. If we are taking the pup out to
play with a ball or go for a walk we will
not use this word even if we know they will
eliminate while we are outside.
When an 'accident' happens
One of the key issues in housebreaking is
to follow Rule Number One: If you do not
catch your puppy doing it, then do not punish
him for it! We do not care what someone else
may tell you or what you read, if you find
a mess that was left when you were not there,
clean it up and forget it.
Discipline will not help because unless you
catch the puppy in the act, he will have
no idea what the scolding is for. Your puppy
has urinated and defecated hundreds of times
before he met you. Mom or the breeder always
cleaned it up. Nobody made a fuss before
and the pup will not put the punishment,
regardless of its form, together with something
he has done without incident numerous times
before. Especially if he did it more than
30 seconds ago! Puppies are just like our
children. Unless something was really fun
(and a repetitious act like going to the
bathroom is not), they are not thinking about
what they did in the past. They are thinking
about what they can do in the future. At
this point in his life a puppy's memory is
very, very poor.
Anyway, let us face it. It was your fault,
not the pup's. If you had been watching,
you would have noticed the puppy suddenly
walking or running around in circles with
his nose down smelling for the perfect spot
to go to the bathroom. It is just as consistent
as the taxi cab driver behind you honking
immediately when the light changes. The puppy
will show the same behavior every time. It
may vary a little from pup to pup but they
always show their own "pre-potty pattern"
before the act.
The same should be said as to your first
reaction when you actually catch them in
the act of urinating or defecating. It is
your fault, you were not watching for or
paying attention to the signals. Do not get
mad. Quickly, but calmly pick them up and
without raising your voice sternly say "No."
Carry them outside or to their papers. It
will help to push their tail down while you
are carrying them as this will often help
them to stop urinating or defecating any
more.
They are going to be excited when you get
them outside or to the papers, but stay there
with them a while and if they finish the
job, reward them with simple praise like
"Good Dog."
House Training Rule Number One: If you don't
catch your puppy doing it, then don't punish
him for it!
In the disciplining of dogs, just like in
physics, every action has a reaction and
for training purposes these may not be beneficial!
If you overreact and severely scold or scare
the heck out of a puppy for making what is
in your mind a mistake, your training is
probably going backwards. With house training
this is especially difficult for them to
understand as they are carrying out a natural
body function. Carried one step farther is
the idea of rubbing a puppy's nose into a
mistake he made, whether you caught him or
not. In the limits of a puppy’s intelligence,
please explain to us the difference of rubbing
his nose in his mess he left in your kitchen
an hour ago versus the one the neighbor's
dog left in the park two weeks ago. If the
dog were smart enough to figure all of this
out, the only logical choice would be to
permanently quit going to the bathroom. Punishment
rarely speeds up house training. Often, it
makes the dog nervous or afraid every time
it needs to go to the bathroom.
We will give you a perfect example of how
this kind of disciplining causes long-term
problems between a dog and his owner. A client
makes an appointment to discuss a housebreaking
problem. They are hoping that on physical
exam or through some testing we can find
a medical reason for the animal's inability
to successfully make it through housebreaking.
They readily admit their frustration with
the dog. The fecal and urine tests reveal
no problem. We assumed that would be the
case and have no intention of charging for
those services. In the examination room,
the pup is showing a lot more interest in
the veterinarian than he is in his owners.
The animal's eyes are almost saying, "Please
kidnap me from them." When the owner
reaches down to pet the dog on his head,
the pup reflexively closes his eyes and turns
his head to the side. The dog reacts as if
he were going to be hit. What this tells
us is that the dog has been punished for
making messes in the owners' absence. During
this punishment the puppy is not, and we
repeat, the puppy is not thinking about what
he might have done two hours ago. He is not
thinking that he should not make messes in
the house. The animal is not even thinking
about the messes.
The classic line that usually goes with this
scenario then comes up "When we get
home we know he has made a mess because he
always sulks or runs and hides!" The
dog is not thinking about some mistake he
may have made. Rather, the pup has learned
that when the people first get home, for
some reason he has yet to figure out, they
are always in a bad mood and he gets punished.
The puppy has decided that maybe he would
be better to try to avoid them for awhile
so he does try to hide. In this particular
case, discipline, misunderstood by the puppy,
has caused him to fear his owners and this
will probably affect their relationship throughout
the life of the dog.
If you want house training to go quickly,
regardless of the method you use, spend as
much time as possible with your puppy. In
an exam room, one of us once listened to
a client complain about how he had to take
some time off from work for his own mental
health and also, but unrelated, how the puppy
was not doing too well in the house training
department. For us this statement was just
too good to be true. It was the perfect set-up
for our pitch. This gentleman, a bachelor,
truly loved his puppy. We saw them together
everywhere. Still, the problem was that he
worked in a downtown office and the pup was
home. His work allowed him to get home frequently
but not always on a consistent schedule.
There would be accidents when he was gone
and sometimes he was gone longer than the
abilities or the attention span of the puppy.
The solution was easy. We simply suggested
his health and the puppy's training would
both do better if he stayed home for a week
or so. It worked. Under the man's watchful
eye, he was always there at the time when
he was needed and in less than seven days
the ten-week-old puppy was trained. We are
not saying there was never another accident,
but they were few and far between. In the
end, the best of all worlds occurred. The
man realized his dog could be trusted, and
thereafter, they spent their days together
at the man's office.
Feeding and house training
The feeding schedule you use can help or
hinder housebreaking. You will soon notice
that puppies will need to go outside soon
after they wake and also within 30 to 40
minutes after eating. Be consistent when
you feed the animal so you can predict when
they need to relieve themselves. Plan your
trips outside around these patterns.
All of this may seem simple, and it really
is. The keys are that it will take time and
you must be consistent. And, of course, you
must never lose your temper or even get excited.
Spontaneous or submissive urination
Puppies may spontaneously urinate when excited.
This may be when they first see you, at meeting
a new dog, or when they are scared. It is
often referred to as submissive or excitement
urination. Do not discipline the puppy for
this, as it is something they cannot control.
Simply ignore it and clean up the mess. If
you do not overreact, they will usually outgrow
this between 4 and 7 months of age.
Summary
Your new puppy is home and you have started
the house training process. This is just
as much a part of training as the "Come"
and "Stay" commands. However, mistakes
that occur with house training can cause
more problems between you and your pet than
those encountered with any other form of
training. Be patient and stay calm.
Top five housebreaking tips
Housebreaking your new dog may seem like
a daunting task, but with a bit of insight
into dog psychology and these proven tips,
your new pet will learn quickly. If he’s
an adult dog who was never fully housebroken
(he has accidents daily, weekly or monthly),
you’ll find it’s best to treat him like a
brand-new unhousebroken puppy.
Select the site. Before your new dog enters
your house, introduce him to the specific
area of your yard you’ve already designated
as his. He’ll soon
associate it with bathroom breaks.
Visit it often. It’s best to take your new
dog outside about every two hours as well
as upon waking, after playing and feeding
and before going to bed. In addition, be
alert to signals like sniffing and circling
that may indicate he has to go.
Use his crate. When you can’t be there, crate
your dog. Your dog respects his new “den”
and will avoid soiling it. If you purchase
a crate large enough to accommodate his adult
size, you can partition off part of the crate
so he won’t go in a corner of it.
Correct him kindly. Accidents will happen.
Remember that shouting, scolding and punishment
serve no purpose and will only confuse your
dog. Even if you catch him in mid-act, simply
say “No!” and immediately take him outside.
Praise him. Lavish praise on your dog each
time he goes outside in his assigned spot.
Speak in an upbeat voice, smile and reward
him with treats after he does his business.
The Scoop on Accidents
Here’s how to make short work of accident
cleanup:
Soak up urine with Bounty® paper towels and
remove feces to a plastic bag.
Treat the soiled area with a mild detergent
solution.
On carpeting, blot the stain—don’t scrub—and
work from the outside toward the center.
To neutralize odors, use a spray product
that’s veterinarian-approved as safe to use
around pets.
A new puppy needs lots of positive reinforcement
during housebreaking.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Whether you've just brought home a puppy
or an older dog from elsewhere, your first
task will be to teach her or him where to
go to the bathroom other than your rugs.
This is easier said than done in most cases,
as the breed is very stubborn and willful.
Generally, the trick is to get the dog to
think that this fantastic idea is theirs.
Of course, the dachshund is also a great
lover of treats, so even very small, lean
treats should always be part of your training
regimine. Dogs born in the Spring can often
be trained with the fresh fruits of summer
if they're sufficiently sweet.
The first rule of thumb is to never let them
get in the habit of urinating in the house.
Every single spot they smell, and rest assured,
they smell them all, is an invitation to
pee. Once trained up your dog should be able
to resist, but until then, consider her or
him to be a dangerous and loaded weapon.
Many people train dachshunds in a crate to
prevent accidents like this. Otherwise, you'll
need to make sure you take the puppy out
every few minutes and reward them lavishly
when they do go to the bathroom outside.
Unless you catch a puppy in the act of committing
the misdeed in the house, there's less than
no point in scolding them, as they've already
forgotten what they just did. If you are
unable to take the puppy out, you should
keep them either in a crate or in a
Some people use paper training and swear
by it. In this method, the whole of a non-carpeted
room is covered in newspapers and the puppy
is allowed to use the newspapers, but with
some of the paper being removed each day.
Eventually the paper is moved outside in
the hopes that the dog will just follow the
papers that you've lavishly praised her or
him for eliminating upon and eventually you
won't need the paper outside.
This does require a room of your house to
have decreasingly large sections doused in
dog urine for anywhere from 10 days to as
much as three weeks. This also assumes your
dog is making the connection between the
urge and the act.
Crate training has the dog kept in a crate,
just large enough to turn around and stand
up in whenever you're not there to the dog
out. Finding the right crate for the task
can be difficult, as the dachshund is a very
flexible dog that tends to elongate as they
grow.
By leaving the crate open while your dachshund
is out, they can sometimes grow a certain
fondness for sleeping or hiding out in the
crate, though they much prefer the furniture
if it's made available to them. Crating a
dachshund puppy while you're gone, you may
also avoid some of the potentially life threatening
nosing around and chewing.
Either way, you should make a real plan of
attack that calls for a lot of praise and
a lot of you helping them not make mistakes.
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print this out
The Dachshund Network Article
Crate Training Your Puppy and Older Dog
by Lynne Burke and Jeannie Fazio
*Please note that these instructions are
for a healthy puppy or dog. If using a crate
with a sick or rehabilitating pet, take extra
precaution in utilizing the crate strictly
for rest by seeking out the advice of a veterinarian
or board-certified neurologist. The following
tips, however, may be helpful in using the
crate in a positive manner.
Dogs are den animals by nature. In the wild
they sleep in caves that are safe from intruders.
Just like their ancestors, dogs need a place
of their own to feel that sense of security,
where they can relax and not be bothered
by another animal or person. If used properly,
the crate makes a great den and wonderful
house-training tool. It is also a must in
keeping your pup safe and house neat.
Just a Few of the Benefits of Having a Crate-Trained
Dog
He will be more comfortable during those
frequent times during the course of his life
when he will undoubtedly have to be in a
crate - while at the animal hospital, on
board a plane, etc.
Many groomers, pet-boarding kennels, and
dog-approved hotels will feel better assured
in knowing that a dog is crate-trained because
it can usually be an indicator that the dog
is a better behaved one.
When transporting your dog, he is much safer
in a crate. If he is not crated and you get
into an accident, he could become a flying
object, possibly hurting himself and others.
In addition, if he is not in a crate, he
could wander away from the accident scene.
Sometimes when company is over it may be
too "busy" for your dog. What a
joy it would be for him to have the safe,
quiet confines of his crate to escape all
of the hustle and bustle.
With a properly crate-training schedule in
place, the chances of your home being damaged
by accidental soiling or destructive behavior
are greatly decreased.
Necessary Equipment
A crate that is large enough for the puppy
to sit, lay down, stand and turn around comfortably.
The perfect solution in accommodating the
growing puppy is to purchase a crate from
a company that also sells partitions for
that particular model, and then get one large
enough to hold him comfortably at expected
full growth. Do not try to hand-make your
own partition. If it caves in and scares
the pup, your chances of getting him to like
his den will be greatly reduced.
A crate pad and blanket.
Odor Neutralizer ("See Spot Go,"
"Nature's Miracle," etc.).
Collar or Harness (for dogs genetically prone
to Degenerative Disc Disease).
A six foot leash.
An empty soda can containing a few pennies
with the opening taped shut.
Puppies
Teaching Him Where to Go and When
Upon initially arriving home with your new
puppy, take him on leash to a pre-designated
soil area that you've chosen outside. Use
this area whenever possible, especially during
the training process.
Patiently wait while he gets familiar with
the new smells, and just AS he is about to
go to the bathroom (he will start to walk
in circles or begin to get into a squatting
position), in a low but firm (and audible)
voice use a one or two word command ("hurry
up" or "go" works well). Doing
this just before he goes will initially teach
him the meaning of this word.
Once he goes, praise him like crazy. He will
soon make the connection between the command
and the actual eliminating, not to mention
the fact that he has made you happy, which
is a dog's ultimate goal.
Once he has become familiar with the command,
start to use it as soon as you get to his
soil area. This is a great technique when
you do not have time to wait for him to go,
or when the weather is not conducive to taking
a long walk. Remember, praising him each
time he eliminates in his outdoor soil area
will quickly teach him that this is what
is expected of him, and he will be happy
to comply, provided that he has to go.
Making the Crate a Fun and Safe Place
Take him inside and introduce him to the
crate in a fun way by throwing toys in the
crate for him, using a one-word command for
going in. One of the more popular commands
would be "kennel."
Once he has gone into the crate, praise him
like crazy, leaving the door open. Initially
feeding your puppy in the opened crate will
help to teach him that this is a positive
place to be.
Find a safe chew toy or snack that he really
likes and save that for his time in the crate.
With perseverant consistency and patience,
most dogs can adapt quickly to their crates.
Keeping a Close Eye During Training Period
When not in crate, on lap, sleeping, etc.,
puppy should ALWAYS be where you can see
him - on a six-foot leash with you at the
other end of it. This is very important during
the training period so as to ensure that
he does not soil in an undesirable area or
cause destructive damage to a favorite piece
of furniture.
Consider a rug that has been peed on (or
a sofa leg that has been destroyed) to be
your fault for not watching puppy during
this critical time of teaching him right
from wrong.
When he does something that is unwanted,
clap your hands very loudly (this will startle
him into immediately stopping) and then calmly
use the leash to either bring him out to
his soil area, or to find him something more
constructive to do. Again, do not forget
to praise him once he is doing something
that you consider desirable.
Very Important: When you cannot watch your
puppy, he should always be in his crate but
no longer than two-three hours during the
puppy training stage.
The First Night
During the first night, your puppy may cry,
whine or even howl. This is not only because
of being in the crate; he is alone for the
first time in his life - away from mom and
littermates.
Some Suggestions to Help During the First
Night
A hot water bottle to substitute the warmth
from the bodies of the littermates that are
no longer with him.
A ticking clock may assist in making the
puppy comfortable as it has been reported
that it sounds much like the heartbeat of
the mother (or a littermate).
You may want to put the crate next to your
bed for the first few nights or, if puppy
is very noisy, in a room far away so you
won't hear him.
Teach him not to cry in crate by helping
him to associate his noisiness in a negative
but gentle way. Try shaking a cleaned out
soda can (hiding it behind your back or under
the blankets so that he does not know it
is you making the noise) that contains a
few pennies taped inside. As soon as puppy
stops crying, stop the shaking. He will soon
learn that when he is quiet, all is quiet.
Do Not Ever...
...let your puppy out if he is making noise.
This only teaches him that making noise gets
him out of the crate. You may have to buy
earplugs for a few nights. If you think he
may have to go out wait until he is quiet
for a minute and be right there to open the
door and let him out.
...leave puppy unattended. He should be in
crate with door closed whenever he cannot
be watched. This will ensure that he and
your home are safe.
...leave collar or harness on dog while in
crate.
...scold when finding accidents in the house.
If you do not catch puppy in the act, then
scolding will only do more harm than good.
Consider it a lesson learned - on your part.
...use a heating pad, which is a danger if
chewed or when wet.
...praise unwanted, negative behavior! This
is a no-no as they will forever associate
their crying with being praised. Instead,
ignore or use a learned command to correct
the bad stuff and then once the pup has corrected
it himself, praise him. Dog's way of thinking:
"If mom is praising me for being a brat,
then I will be a brat more often!" (negative
reinforcement). "If mom is praising
me for doing good, I will try to do good,
provided that I know what is expected of
me" (positive reinforcement). Remember
that dogs always want to please in a way
that seems most pleasing to their owners.
Praising only the good things will teach
them right from wrong quickly and efficiently.
General Training Tips
The crate should be big enough for your dog
to comfortably sit, stand and turn around
in, but not big enough that he would be able
to mess at one end and sleep at the other.
A crate is never used as a punishment tool.
This does not mean that you are not able
to use the crate for time - out periods.
It just has to be done in a positive manner.
Always make the crate fun. Never scold him
before putting him in. Even if upset with
puppy, keep your voice low but firm, using
a cheerful tone when giving your puppy his
learned command to go into the crate.
Initially practice during the day so as to
have puppy quietly used to it in time for
bed. This should help to ensure a restful
night's sleep. Caution: The first few nights
(or even weeks) might be anything but!
If pup goes to the bathroom in his soil area,
he should be free of any accidents, provided
you do not give him water or food. This is
a good time to allow him to be with you at
a watchful range. If he has not gone while
outside, he should not be allowed to be with
you but instead should return to his crate.
Repeat: do not let on that you are impatient
or unhappy; the crate should always be a
positive place for him to learn and grow.
Leave the room, and then try again in approximately
thirty minutes. Repeat this method until
he has gone to the bathroom in his soil area.
Puppy should quickly learn that when he goes,
he gets to be with you.
Pup also needs to learn to be part of the
family. Crating him on a daily basis, with
door closed, should only continue until he
is fully free of soiling or destructive chewing.
Until such time, keeping him close to you
via a collar and leash will allow him to
feel like a valued member of the family,
and will help you in the bonding process.
Being consistent in your training times will
really get your dog on a solid schedule.
If you crate, exercise, and take your puppy
outdoors at roughly the same time every day,
he will quickly know what is expected of
him. The same especially applies to feeding
and watering at the same time each day.
Make it a habit to always take puppy out
to his soil area directly after exiting the
crate.
The best method is to take pup out first
thing upon arising from bed, then feed, water,
let him rest in crate for 30 minutes (while
you get ready for work) before taking him
out to his soil area, and playing with him
for 10 minutes before bringing him to crate.
Repeat these steps every two to four hours.
Evenings can be spent with you provided that
both you and pup are at both ends of the
six - foot leash while preparing dinner,
watching television, studying, etc. During
times when pup cannot be watched closely
(while in shower, on telephone, etc) or where
he may be underfoot or in harm's way (frying
foods, friends bring their adult dog or rowdy
children, etc), pup should ALWAYS be in crate.
During training, water should be eliminated
three hours before bedtime. If he is thirsty,
give him ice cubes instead.
A puppy should never be in his crate for
too long. Undeveloped eight to ten week old
puppy bladder muscles can usually hold urine
NO longer than three to four hours at a time.
In the beginning, you may be taking the puppy
outside every 2 hours. As the puppy gets
older, the time between outside visits can
be increased.
Never let pup soil in his crate for this
will only lead to severe housebreaking problems
as an adult. For those unable to exercise
pup every three to four hours, consider hiring
someone to come in at midday, or confine
him to an area with newspapers that are located
OUTSIDE of an opened crate.
Never put newspaper inside of crate. Because
breeders often use newspaper in their kennels,
pups will probably associate them with being
allowed to eliminate.
Because every dog is different, crate bedding
does not always work. With most dogs, bedding
works just fine. However, some will eliminate
on the blankets as they will associate the
nice warm blanket or pad as a place to soil.
If this is the case, take the bedding out
for a few weeks, and then try putting it
back in. If the problem re-occurs, bedding
must be totally eliminated during the crate-training
process. Also, chewing blankets can be a
danger in the crate. One such incident involved
a dog that chewed a hole in his blanket and
then got it tightly wrapped around his leg.
When the owners arrived home the circulation
had been cut off to the foot and the leg
was swollen. This dog was fortunate as no
injuries were sustained.
If possible, initially practice crating while
at home so that puppy does not associate
having to be in there only while you are
gone.
When pup is being a real pain or has made
a huge mess in the house (and it needs to
be cleaned up), be near the crate with some
treats in your hand. Call the dog, give him
his command in a positive tone (despite how
you may be feeling at the moment) to go into
the crate. Once he is in, give him the treat
and shut the door of the crate. Do not scold
pup for the mess, for he has forgotten what
he has done, and thinks he is getting the
treat for going into the crate.
There may be days when you are painting or
doing some other chores that could be dangerous
to the dog if he is out and about. Just grab
some kibble, a favorite toy and let the crate
be a safe place to stay until it is safe
to let him out.
Keep the location of crates in a central
part of the house, where the dog can be with
you and family. Multiple crates are often
used in more than one section of the house
(bedroom, living, family room, kitchen, etc.)
so that the dog feels like part of the family
while confined to his den."
Some dogs are more comfortable (and quiet)
with their crates covered.
Follow the same crate-training procedures
for any setbacks in urination or destructive
behavior.
Older Dogs
Older dogs can be more difficult to crate
train, but again, consistency, perseverance
and patience are the keys to success. Follow
the same instructions and tips as above using
the additional advice included below. Because
every dog is different, you must act and
react according to their needs as well as
their learned (and unlearned) behavior.
Tips
Leave the door of the crate open and feed
the dog in the crate for a few days or weeks
depending on how much fear he may show of
the crate.
Leave the door open and throw toys in the
crate to get him interested in it. Find him
a favorite toy, maybe a Kong that has been
stuffed with peanut butter or yogurt Hint:
Try freezing the stuffed Kong for extra long-lasting
pleasure, and put him in the crate with that.
Once he is interested in the Kong, close
the door just for a few minutes.
For the dog that really seems to dislike
the crate, you must go very slowly in your
steps to help him adapt. Gradually increase
how long you leave him in the crate. If your
dog starts to get upset, you've increased
the time you are leaving him in the crate
too quickly. If your older dog isn't destructive,
you can work at this at an even slower pace.
Wait until he has calmed down before opening
the door.
At night when it is time to put your dog
in his crate, give him a piece of biscuit
and close the door.
If your dog starts to carry on, get behind
the crate where the dog can't see you and
give the crate a firm slap and say "quiet".
As soon as the dog is quiet for about 5 seconds,
give him some kibble. Hopefully you can gradually
increase the times between slaps and increase
the time the dog is quiet. You may have to
buy earplugs to wear for a few days but don't
give in even once, or it will make it all
the more difficult to train him properly.
It often helps to leave music playing to
keep your dog company.
Crate-training is an invaluable tool, provided
that it has been introduced and taught in
a positive way. With proper, humane methods
of crate training, you will notice your dog
voluntarily enjoying the peaceful confines
of his crate, long after the training period
has ended.
Disclaimer
The opinions on this page are those of the
authors and are designed to give novice pet
owners general information to assist them
in the general care of their dogs.
Reference: Good Owners, Great Dogs by Brian
Kilcommons
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